Crochet Highland Cow Pattern – Amigurumi Cow Tutorial

BySaimar

Looking for a charming farmyard friend to crochet? This Highland cow pattern combines shaggy fringe, curved horns, and a soft cream muzzle.

Crochet Highland Cow Pattern – Amigurumi Cow Tutorial

With its rustic orange coat, fluffy-looking fringe, little horns, and contrasting cream muzzle, this crochet Highland cow has the distinctive character of a miniature farmyard animal.

Its warm colors and rounded features make it a lovely handmade keepsake, a thoughtful gift for an animal lover, or a cheerful addition to an amigurumi collection. The crochet details give this little cow plenty of personality without relying on complicated color patterns.

This step-by-step crochet pattern explains how to shape the head and body, create four sturdy legs, and make the arms, ears, horns, muzzle, and tail. You will also learn where to position the safety eyes, how to attach the facial features neatly, and how to finish the head with a yarn fringe that gives your crochet cow its recognizable Highland look.

Credit: Hooks & Needles By Mita

Materials & Tools Needed

  • Yarn: Rustic orange for the main body, cream for the horns and muzzle, and brown for the feet, arms, and tail.
  • Crochet Hook: 2 mm crochet hook.
  • Safety Eyes: 10 mm safety eyes.
  • Fiberfill: For stuffing the head, body, and selected parts of the limbs.
  • Stitch Marker: To keep track of rounds when working in continuous spirals.
  • Yarn Needle: For sewing the pieces together and weaving in ends.
  • Scissors: For cutting yarn and trimming the fringe.

Pattern Abbreviations & Terminology

All instructions use US crochet terminology.

  • SC: Single crochet.
  • Inc: Increase by working 2 single crochets in the same stitch.
  • Dec: Invisible decrease, worked through the front loops of the next 2 stitches.
  • St(s): Stitch(es).
  • Rnd(s): Round(s).
  • MR: Magic ring.
  • Ch: Chain.
  • Sl st: Slip stitch.
  • [ … ] × N: Repeat the instructions inside the brackets N times.

Crochet Highland Cow Pattern – Amigurumi Cow Tutorial

Before You Begin

The Highland cow is made from separate crocheted pieces that you stuff where indicated and sew together. Most pieces are worked in rounds, so place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round to help you keep track.

Keep your stitches tight enough to prevent the fiberfill from showing through. When making invisible decreases, pick up the front loop of each of the next two stitches, then complete the single crochet as usual. This creates a neater decrease with less visible stuffing gaps.

The head and body use rustic orange yarn, while brown and cream yarn create the contrasting details. Read each section before beginning it so you know when to change colors, add stuffing, or leave a long sewing tail.

Step-by-Step Crochet Highland Cow Pattern

1. Head – Rustic Orange Yarn

Work the head from the top down. Increases gradually widen the piece, while later decreases shape the lower face.

  • Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 SC into it. Pull the ring closed. (6 sts)
  • Round 2: Work 1 inc in each stitch around. (12 sts)
  • Round 3: Repeat [1 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (18 sts)
  • Round 4: Repeat [2 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (24 sts)
  • Round 5: Repeat [3 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (30 sts)
  • Round 6: Repeat [4 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (36 sts)
  • Round 7: Repeat [5 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (42 sts)
  • Round 8: Repeat [6 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (48 sts)
  • Round 9: Repeat [7 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (54 sts)
  • Rounds 10-17: Work 1 SC in every stitch around for 8 rounds. (54 sts)
  • Round 18: Repeat [26 SC, 1 inc] 2 times. (56 sts)
  • Round 19: Repeat [6 SC, 1 inc] 8 times. (64 sts)
  • Rounds 20-23: Work 1 SC in every stitch around for 4 rounds. (64 sts)

Place the safety eyes: Gently flatten the head to find its center line. Count 17 rows down from the top edge and insert the 10 mm safety eyes between Rows 17 and 18. Position them approximately 8 stitches apart, with 4 stitches on either side of the center fold line. Check that the eyes sit level before securing the backing caps.

  • Round 24: Repeat [6 SC, 1 dec] 8 times. (56 sts)
  • Round 25: Work 1 SC in every stitch around. (56 sts)
  • Round 26: Repeat [5 SC, 1 dec] 8 times. (48 sts)
  • Round 27: Repeat [4 SC, 1 dec] 8 times. (40 sts)
  • Round 28: Repeat [3 SC, 1 dec] 8 times. (32 sts)
  • Round 29: Repeat [2 SC, 1 dec] 8 times. (24 sts)

Begin adding fiberfill at Round 29. Distribute it evenly around the head, especially near the sides of the face, while keeping the opening accessible.

  • Round 30: Repeat [1 SC, 1 dec] 8 times. (16 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use the tail and yarn needle to close the remaining opening neatly after checking that the head has enough stuffing to hold its shape.

Make the hair fringe: Cut short strands of rustic orange yarn. Fold each strand in half, insert the crochet hook through a stitch across the top four rows of the head, catch the folded loop, and pull it through. Pass the loose ends through the loop and tighten gently to secure each strand. Continue across the top to create the fringe, leaving the ends untrimmed until final assembly.

2. Body – Rustic Orange Yarn

The body begins with a small circle, widens to form the upper section, and then decreases toward the bottom. Stuff it gradually so the finished shape stays even.

  • Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 SC into it. (6 sts)
  • Round 2: Work 1 inc in every stitch around. (12 sts)
  • Round 3: Repeat [1 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (18 sts)
  • Round 4: Repeat [2 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (24 sts)
  • Round 5: Repeat [3 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (30 sts)
  • Round 6: Repeat [4 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (36 sts)
  • Round 7: Repeat [5 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (42 sts)
  • Round 8: Repeat [6 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (48 sts)
  • Round 9: Repeat [7 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (54 sts)
  • Rounds 10–19: Work 1 SC in every stitch around for 10 rounds. (54 sts)
  • Round 20: Repeat [7 SC, 1 dec] 6 times. (48 sts)
  • Round 21: Work 1 SC in every stitch around. (48 sts)
  • Round 22: Repeat [6 SC, 1 dec] 6 times. (42 sts)
  • Round 23: Work 1 SC in every stitch around. (42 sts)
  • Round 24: Repeat [5 SC, 1 dec] 6 times. (36 sts)
  • Round 25: Work 1 SC in every stitch around. (36 sts)
  • Round 26: Repeat [4 SC, 1 dec] 6 times. (30 sts)

Begin stuffing the body at Round 26. Add small amounts at a time, distributing the fiberfill evenly instead of pushing it all into one area.

  • Round 27: Work 1 SC in every stitch around. (30 sts)
  • Round 28: Repeat [3 SC, 1 dec] 6 times. (24 sts)
  • Round 29: Work 1 SC in every stitch around. (24 sts)
  • Round 30: Repeat [2 SC, 1 dec] 6 times. (18 sts)
  • Round 31: Work 1 SC in every stitch around. (18 sts)
  • Round 32: Repeat [7 SC, 1 dec] 2 times. (16 sts)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Keep the top opening available for joining the head. Before attaching the two pieces, check that the body is evenly stuffed and does not lean noticeably to one side.

3. Legs – Brown Yarn, Make 4

Make four matching legs. Each begins in brown yarn to form the feet, then changes to rustic orange for the upper portion.

  • Round 1: With brown yarn, make a magic ring and work 6 SC into it. (6 sts)
  • Round 2: Work 1 inc in every stitch around. (12 sts)
  • Round 3: Repeat [1 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (18 sts)
  • Round 4: Repeat [2 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (24 sts)
  • Round 5: Repeat [3 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (30 sts)
  • Round 6: Repeat [4 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (36 sts)
  • Rounds 7-8: Work 1 SC in every stitch around for 2 rounds. (36 sts)

Change to rustic orange: On the final stitch of Round 8, begin the stitch with brown yarn as usual. Before drawing through the final loops, use rustic orange yarn to complete the stitch. Continue Round 9 with the new color, then cut the brown yarn, leaving a short end to weave in.

  • Round 9: Repeat [4 SC, 1 dec] 6 times. (30 sts)
  • Round 10: Repeat [3 SC, 1 dec] 6 times. (24 sts)
  • Rounds 11-12: Work 1 SC in every stitch around for 2 rounds. (24 sts)
  • Round 13: Repeat [2 SC, 1 dec] 6 times. (18 sts)

Stuff the bottom half firmly enough to give each foot its shape. Keep the upper half very lightly stuffed so the legs can sit naturally against the body.

  • Rounds 14-22: Work 1 SC in every stitch around for 9 rounds. (18 sts)
  • Round 23: Repeat [1 SC, 1 dec] 6 times. (12 sts)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Repeat until you have four legs with matching color changes and similar lengths.

4. Arms – Brown Yarn, Make 2

The arms use brown yarn at the ends and rustic orange above the color change. Make two matching pieces.

  • Round 1: With brown yarn, make a magic ring and work 6 SC into it. (6 sts)
  • Round 2: Work 1 inc in every stitch around. (12 sts)
  • Round 3: Repeat [1 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (18 sts)
  • Round 4: Repeat [2 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (24 sts)
  • Round 5: Repeat [3 SC, 1 inc] 6 times. (30 sts)
  • Rounds 6-7: Work 1 SC in every stitch around for 2 rounds. (30 sts)

Change to rustic orange: Complete the final stitch of Round 7 with rustic orange yarn, then cut the brown yarn.

  • Round 8: Repeat [3 SC, 1 dec] 6 times. (24 sts)
  • Rounds 9-12: Work 1 SC in every stitch around for 4 rounds. (24 sts)
  • Round 13: Repeat [2 SC, 1 dec] 6 times. (18 sts)
  • Rounds 14-17: Work 1 SC in every stitch around for 4 rounds. (18 sts)
  • Round 18: Repeat [1 SC, 1 dec] 6 times. (12 sts)

Add light stuffing up to this point, keeping the arms flexible rather than firm.

  • Rounds 19-27: Work 1 SC in every stitch around for 9 rounds. (12 sts)

Fasten off and leave a long sewing tail. Make the second arm in the same way, checking that both pieces have similar lengths and stuffing.

5. Ears – Rustic Orange Yarn, Make 2

The ears are made in small rounds, then flattened at the opening so they can be sewn neatly to the sides of the head.

  • Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 SC into it. (6 sts)
  • Round 2: Repeat [1 SC, 1 inc] 3 times. (9 sts)
  • Round 3: Repeat [2 SC, 1 inc] 3 times. (12 sts)
  • Round 4: Repeat [3 SC, 1 inc] 3 times. (15 sts)
  • Round 5: Repeat [4 SC, 1 inc] 3 times. (18 sts)
  • Rounds 6-8: Work 1 SC in every stitch around for 3 rounds. (18 sts)
  • Round 9: Repeat [4 SC, 1 dec] 3 times. (15 sts)
  • Round 10: Repeat [3 SC, 1 dec] 3 times. (12 sts)
  • Round 11: Work 1 SC in every stitch around. (12 sts)

Flatten the open edge in half, aligning the stitches on the front and back. Close the opening by sewing through both layers or crocheting 5 SC across the flattened edge. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Make the second ear to match. Keep both ears unstuffed so their flattened edges are easy to attach.

6. Horns – Cream Yarn, Make 2

The horns are narrow, gently shaped pieces. Follow the increases carefully to create a gradual curve.

  • Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 5 SC into it. (5 sts)
  • Round 2: Work 1 SC in every stitch around. (5 sts)
  • Round 3: Work 1 SC, 1 inc, then 3 SC. (6 sts)
  • Round 4: Work 1 SC in every stitch around. (6 sts)
  • Round 5: Work 2 SC, 1 inc, then 3 SC. (7 sts)
  • Round 6: Work 1 SC in every stitch around. (7 sts)
  • Round 7: Work 3 SC, 1 inc, then 3 SC. (8 sts)
  • Round 8: Work 1 SC in every stitch around. (8 sts)
  • Round 9: Work 4 SC, 1 inc, then 3 SC. (9 sts)
  • Rounds 10-11: Work 1 SC in every stitch around for 2 rounds. (9 sts)

Stuff the horns firmly enough to help them hold their shape. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Make the second horn in the same way.

7. Muzzle – Cream Yarn

The muzzle starts with a chain and is worked around both sides of the foundation chain. This creates an oval shape rather than a circular piece.

  • Foundation: Chain 7.
  • Round 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 5 SC. Work 3 SC into the last chain. Turn the work so you can crochet along the opposite side of the foundation chain. Work 4 SC, then 1 inc in the final stitch. (14 sts)
  • Round 2: Work 1 inc, 4 SC, 3 inc, 4 SC, then 2 inc. (20 sts)
  • Round 3: Work [1 SC, 1 inc] once, 4 SC, [1 SC, 1 inc] 3 times, 4 SC, then [1 SC, 1 inc] 2 times. (26 sts)
  • Round 4: Repeat [1 SC, 1 inc] 13 times. (39 sts)

Join with a slip stitch and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Before attaching the muzzle, lay it flat and check that the oval is not twisted. The foundation chain should remain centered, with the stitches distributed evenly around both sides.

8. Tail – Brown Yarn

The tail is a narrow tube with a small fringe at its tip.

  • Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 SC into it. (6 sts)
  • Round 2: Repeat [1 SC, 1 inc] 3 times. (9 sts)
  • Rounds 3-12: Work 1 SC in every stitch around for 10 rounds. (9 sts)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Attach a short fringe of brown yarn at the tip using the same loop-and-pull method used for the head fringe.

Assembly & Finishing

Take time to pin the pieces in place before sewing. Check the cow from the front and both sides so the features look balanced before securing each seam.

1. Attach the Muzzle and Embroider the Nostrils

Place the cream muzzle on the lower half of the head, centered beneath the safety eyes. Pin it in place and sew around its outer stitches using the long cream yarn tail. The muzzle is left unstuffed, as specified in the pattern.

Use brown yarn to embroider two nostrils on the muzzle. Align them with the eyes and keep them spaced evenly so the face looks balanced.

2. Sew on the Horns

Position the two cream horns on the sides of the head, approximately 8 stitches above the eyes. Pin them first and compare their height and angle from the front.

Use the long yarn tails to sew around each horn base securely. Keep the horns sitting at similar angles so one does not appear higher or more tilted than the other.

3. Attach the Ears

Fold each ear’s closed edge flat and position it one row below the corresponding horn. Sew the flattened edge firmly to the head, keeping both ears at matching heights.

Check that the ears remain visible around the fringe and horns instead of being hidden behind them.

4. Join the Head and Body

Align the open base of the head with the top opening of the body. Use the long yarn tail from the body and a yarn needle to whipstitch around both openings.

Work through matching stitches on each piece, adjusting the alignment as you go. Before closing the seam completely, check that the face points forward and the head sits straight above the body. Finish sewing around the join, then weave in the yarn end securely.

5. Attach the Legs

Position the four legs near the bottom of the body, using the ears as a visual guide for alignment from the front. Place the two front legs evenly on the front-facing sides and the two back legs toward the rear.

Pin all four legs before sewing. Set the cow on a flat surface to check that the legs look balanced and that the body sits naturally. Sew each leg securely through its upper edge, adjusting the position before completing each seam.

6. Attach the Arms

Position the arms just below the head-and-neck junction, angled slightly outward. Check their placement from the front to make sure both arms sit at a similar height.

Sew each arm securely to the body, hiding the yarn tails inside the stitches when finished.

7. Attach the Tail

Sew the brown tail to the center of the back, roughly 12 rows up from the bottom edge. Secure the base with several stitches so it stays attached, then arrange the short fringe at the tip.

8. Trim the Head Fringe

Once the other pieces are attached, trim the rustic orange fringe to your preferred length. Cut small amounts at a time rather than shortening every strand immediately. This makes it easier to create an even, fluffy-looking fringe while keeping the cow’s eyes and horns visible.

Weave in any remaining ends and check all seams before displaying your finished Highland cow.

Helpful Finishing Tip: Keep the Face Balanced

The horns, ears, eyes, and muzzle all contribute to the Highland cow’s expression. Before sewing any facial piece permanently, use pins to hold it in position and look at the head straight on. Small adjustments at this stage can make a noticeable difference to the finished face.

The fringe can also change how the face looks, so trim it only after the horns and ears are attached. Keep the strands around the eyes short enough to leave both eyes visible, while allowing the top fringe to remain fuller.

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