Need a tiny fall accent? Crochet a mini pumpkin with soft orange yarn, a curled green vine, and simple shaping for a sweet handmade decoration in any cozy corner.
A tiny crochet pumpkin can bring plenty of seasonal charm without taking up much space. This mini design has a softly rounded orange body topped with a green stem and curling vine, giving the finished piece a playful autumn look. Using baby-weight yarn also keeps the pumpkin small and delicate, making it easy to display alongside other fall decorations.
Inside this tutorial, you’ll work the pumpkin body in joined rounds with single crochet, increases, and decreases, then create the green stem and curling vine separately. The shaping deserves particular attention as the rounds grow and later decrease, while the vine gets its curl from placing 2 sc into the back bumps of the chain. You’ll also see how to secure the stem neatly without crushing its single crochet stitches.
Materials & Tools Needed
- Yarn: Thin baby-weight yarn (baby soft) in orange and green, or any shades of your choice.
- Crochet Hook: 3.5 mm crochet hook.
- Other Tools: Tapestry needle, one stitch marker, and scissors.
Finished Size & Customization
The tutorial makes a mini pumpkin.
For a larger pumpkin, use a thicker yarn weight and increase the hook size accordingly.
Pattern Abbreviations & Terminology
The pattern uses these crochet abbreviations:
- ch = Chain
- sc = Single crochet
- sl st = Slip stitch
- inc = Increase – 2 sc in the same stitch
- dec = Decrease – an invisible decrease worked through the front loops only
- st(s) = Stitch(es)
How to Crochet the Mini Pumpkin Body
Work the pumpkin body with the orange yarn.
Round 1: Start with a magic circle, also referred to as a syn circle in the tutorial. Ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the tail tight to close the circle. Sl st into the first sc to join. (Stitch count: 6 sc)
The starting circle should close neatly before you continue. Pulling the tail tight brings the center together so the first round has a compact beginning.
Round 2 – Increase Round 1: Ch 1. Place 2 sc (inc) in the very first space where you joined. Place 2 sc in all the remaining stitches around. Sl st to the first sc to join. (Stitch count: 12 sc)
Pay attention to the first space where the round was joined. That is where the first increase is placed before you continue around.
Round 3 – Increase Round 2: Ch 1. Place 1 sc in the first space, then 2 sc (inc) in the next stitch. Repeat the pattern of [1 sc, inc] all the way around. Sl st to the first sc to join.
The alternating single crochet and increase begins widening the pumpkin body gradually. Keeping the repeat consistent helps the round expand evenly.
Round 4 – Increase Round 3: Ch 1. Place 1 sc in the first st, 1 sc in the next st, and then 2 sc (inc) in the third st. Repeat the pattern of [2 sc, inc] around. Sl st to the first sc to join.
Round 5 – Increase Round 4: Ch 1. Place 1 sc in the first 3 sts, then 2 sc (inc) in the next st. Repeat the pattern of [3 sc, inc] around. Sl st to the first sc to join.
At this point, the repeated increases have continued expanding the circular body. If you are checking your work visually, the piece should be developing a broader rounded base rather than remaining a small flat center.
Rounds 6-7: Ch 1. Place 1 sc in every stitch around for two full rounds.
After these two rounds, gently push the center down so the work curls slightly, keeping the starting tail on the inside.
Round 8 – Increase Round 5: Ch 1. Place 1 sc in the first 4 sts, then 2 sc (inc) in the next st. Repeat the pattern of [4 sc, inc] around. Sl st to the first sc to join. (Tip: You can place a stitch marker at the end of the round to keep track.)
The stitch marker can be especially useful here because the increase sequence continues around the entire round. It gives you a clear reference point while working the repeat.
Round 9: Ch 1. Place 1 sc in every stitch around. Sl st to join.
This round keeps the stitch pattern moving evenly after the increase round, so maintain the same placement around the full circle.
Round 10 – Decrease Round 1: Ch 1. Place 1 sc in the first 4 sts. For the decrease, grab only the front loop of the next stitch and the front loop of the following stitch, yarn over, pull through both front loops, and complete your sc (invisible decrease). Repeat the pattern of [4 sc, dec] around. Sl st to join.
Understanding the Invisible Decrease
The decrease in this round is different from simply working two stitches together through both loops. Here, you use only the front loop of the next stitch and the front loop of the following stitch, then complete the sc.
Keeping those front-loop placements accurate helps you follow the specified invisible decrease method and keeps the decrease detail less noticeable on the finished pumpkin.
Continue Closing the Pumpkin Body
After Round 10, continue with the standard decrease rounds to close the pumpkin body and stuff it firmly before fastening off, as specified in the tutorial.
The supplied tutorial information does not provide the exact round-by-round stitch counts or repeat instructions for these remaining decrease rounds, so those details should be followed from the original video rather than being estimated.
Size Adjustment Note
The mini pumpkin can be made larger by changing the yarn and hook size together. The tutorial specifically suggests using a thicker yarn weight with a larger hook when you want a larger pumpkin.
This gives you a straightforward way to change the overall scale while keeping the same basic design idea.
Crochet the Green Stem and Curling Vine
Work this part with the green yarn.
Prepare the Chain
Twine Setup: Chain your desired length, leaving 10 chains unworked at the end for the straight part of the stem. Place a stitch marker on the 10th chain from the end to mark the transition.
The stitch marker identifies where the curling vine ends and the straight stem portion begins, so it is useful to keep it in place until you reach that point.
Create the Curling Vine
Curling Twine: Working in the back bumps of the chain, place 2 sc in the second chain from the hook. Continue placing 2 sc in the back bump of each chain down the row until you reach the stitch marker.
The repeated 2-sc placement naturally forces this section to curl into a vine shape. Working into the back bumps keeps the placement consistent along the chain.
Work the Straight Stem
Stem Base: Once you reach the stitch marker, remove it. For the remaining chains that form the stem portion, place just 1 sc in the back bump of each chain until the end.
The change from 2 sc to 1 sc is what separates the curled vine section from the straighter stem section.
Finish the Green Piece
Finishing: Ch 1, pull the yarn high, and cut a long tail for sewing.
Attach the Stem to the Pumpkin
Position the Stem
Placement: Place the stem piece at the top center of the closed pumpkin body, ensuring the right side of the stitches faces outward.
Secure the Stem
Sewing: Thread the long green tail onto your tapestry needle. Sew the stem to the top by passing the needle down through the stem, catching a loop of the pumpkin body, and coming back up through the base chain of the stem.
Keep the Stem Stitches Visible
Secure the Base: When attaching the stem, make sure to grab only the base chains of the stem piece. Avoid catching and squishing the single crochet stitches.
Work your way around the base of the stem to secure it firmly. Excessive stitching is not necessary.
Hide the Yarn Tail
Finishing the Join: Once the stem is secure, weave the needle deep inside the pumpkin body and out the other side. Pull slightly tight and snip the yarn so the tail hides completely inside the stuffing.
The finished mini pumpkin can now be used as a small seasonal decoration, with the curled green vine adding the final detail to its top.
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